thanks to /u/samwichse
https://www.reddit.com/r/OlympusCamera/comments/vkjsjk/olympus_omd_em10_mk_iii_lcd_ribbon_cable/
Olympus om-d e-m10 mk iii LCD ribbon cable replacement
Required kit
No spudgers or security drivers required
Step 1: 10 screws on the bottom panel. 2 on the left and 4 on the right are the same. The two in the back of the screw-mount area are different threaded, the two in the front are different threaded and length. I took my screws out starting at the back of the work surface coming forward to keep track of where everything went..
Step 2: Now take off the bottom plate and the battery door. The battery door just snaps right out.
Step 3: take this screw out of the ports hatch on the side of the camera
Step 4: take off the 4 screws under the screen by tipping it down, then up.
Step 5: take off these two screws on the right side.
Step 6: Why won't it open yet??? These two screws are under the rubber grip material on the front on the other side of the camera. Peel it up just enough to unscrew them.
Step 7: Carefully separate the back cover/screen assembly. There aren't any clips or glue, but don't yank the ribbon connector sideways.
Step 8: Flip the black part up on the ribbon cable connector to release the cable from the main camera body and set the body aside. Everything from here out is in the back half/LCD assembly.
Step 9: Take the 4 screws off the back of the LCD unit by flipping it first this way
Then this way.
Step 10: Take all the screws out of this thin metal plate inside the back. The bottom 4 in angled pairs are short ones that go into the hinges. Lay them all out so you know where they went because there are several sizes/threads.
Step 11: Unplug this connector by flipping up the black tab at the front of it like the first one. Leave the smaller connector plugged in. You can also unsolder the smaller cable above now. You'll have to do it eventually no matter what.
Step 12: This plastic plate is held in by two screws and the cable is stickied between it and the metal of the hinge mechanism, so remove the screws so you can separate it all.
Step 13: Wiggle, peel any tape (remember where you removed any tape or stickum so you can retape there on assembly), and unthread the old cable or of all the loose pieces. Pictured: left to right LCD, hinge assy, back assy, cable origami.
Step 14: Bend your new cable where the old one is bent. Do it before threading it through anything. There are actually little marked areas that show where it's supposed to be bent.
Step 15: You're going to have to reverse what you just did unthreading it through everything. The good news here is that you've already got everything apart, so pure desperation that you've irretrievably broken your camera should be driving you by about the third time you get it wrong and start over. When you've gotten it, re-solder this connection. Remember, the pads go up and lie next to the board pads. There are little locating holes to line it up right. If you do this and find you've done something wrong, don't unsolder, just work the cable out the other way, you'll have to fold it a bit but it'll come out the other way without damage. Trust me, I know.
Step 16: start reassembling everything by reversing these directions. Apply kapton tape to connectors/points it was adhered with when you took it apart. Be sure when reassembling that the ribbon cable connector removed in step 8 is really firmly seated back in the connector and the latch is pressed! Otherwise you’ll get it back together and find your LCD still won’t work! When I was done I also had two screws left over… they match each other and the camera works great. I'm leaving it.
Step 17: Have a 4th beer, curse this thing, and vow to never use the tilt LCD function on your cameras again.
